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Improve doc: add a few more steps

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Zruncho 2022-10-31 00:20:16 -07:00
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@ -4,9 +4,9 @@ In a nutshell: **it's not that hard**.
Even as a first-time, scratch build, it's reasonable to do the mechanical side in only a few hours. Even as a first-time, scratch build, it's reasonable to do the mechanical side in only a few hours.
Even if you're also doing BoxZero at the same time, the gantry can stay in place, with changes around the gantry. Even if you're also doing BoxZero at the same time, the gantry can stay in place, as you work around it.
The build order isn't as prescribed as a V0, because the bedrame can be easily added and removed, and because the motors can go in before or after the MotorCorners... this is an under-appreciated benefit of T0. The build order isn't as prescribed as a V0, because the bedframe can be easily added and removed, and because the motors can go in before or after the MotorCorners... this is an under-appreciated benefit of T0.
**You can do it!** Lots of people have, without even these instructions. **You can do it!** Lots of people have, without even these instructions.
@ -15,9 +15,9 @@ When in doubt, consult the CAD, but realize that not all screws and nuts are pre
And yes, the steps are a little bit high level in a few places; we'll improve these over time, with more pictures, especially. And yes, the steps are a little bit high level in a few places; we'll improve these over time, with more pictures, especially.
## Prep ## Prep
* **Skim the list of PRs on the GitHub** - is there anything new and useful for you? * **Skim the [list of PRs](https://github.com/zruncho3d/tri-zero/pulls) on the GitHub** - is there anything new and useful for you?
* Print parts per [parts guide](PARTS.md) * Print parts per [parts guide](PARTS.md)
* Print NDNs - more than you think you'll need. * Print [NDNs](https://github.com/zruncho3d/f-zero/tree/main/STLs/NoDropNuts) matched to your extrusions - more than you think you'll need.
## Pre-build ## Pre-build
* Add heatsets where needed * Add heatsets where needed
@ -31,7 +31,7 @@ And yes, the steps are a little bit high level in a few places; we'll improve th
For conversions, of course! For conversions, of course!
* Remove the V0 Z assembly * Remove the V0 Z assembly
* .. but leave the rear verticals in place * .. but leave the rear verticals in place
* Remove bedframe (possibly by removing the rail m2s... that's one way) * Remove bedframe (possibly by removing the rail M2 screws... that's one way)
* Take it all off. You'll need the extrusions. * Take it all off. You'll need the extrusions.
* Remove Z railstops * Remove Z railstops
* Remove rear Z motor/stepper unit * Remove rear Z motor/stepper unit
@ -69,6 +69,9 @@ For conversions, of course!
* Add a screw for locking in place and ensuring it can slide up and down; you tighten this one (against an extrusion) when the tension is set. * Add a screw for locking in place and ensuring it can slide up and down; you tighten this one (against an extrusion) when the tension is set.
* Add a screw for adjusting the tension * Add a screw for adjusting the tension
* Add front belts. Attach with minimal extra belt on top first. Then snake the belt around, past the pulley, up and to the attachment. Leave a bit of extra to grab in the future (say, 15 teeth to start; can always trim later, and only when both sides are tensioned fully.) * Add front belts. Attach with minimal extra belt on top first. Then snake the belt around, past the pulley, up and to the attachment. Leave a bit of extra to grab in the future (say, 15 teeth to start; can always trim later, and only when both sides are tensioned fully.)
* Ensure alignment for the front pulleys and lock them down.
* Tension the tensioner and ensure smooth travel across the full range of motion.
* If using printed sliders, lubricate the bearing and slide it up and down until it coats the full full extrusion travel used.
#### Assemble rear Z #### Assemble rear Z
![](Renders/alpha-6/rear_z.png) ![](Renders/alpha-6/rear_z.png)
@ -84,9 +87,13 @@ For conversions, of course!
* Attach tensioner screw and add the tensioner unit (the one with a belt already, right?). Screw the tensioner in a turn or two - the minimum amount to keep it on. * Attach tensioner screw and add the tensioner unit (the one with a belt already, right?). Screw the tensioner in a turn or two - the minimum amount to keep it on.
* Route belt around lower pulley and add the rear belt attachment, with some tension applied; it'll float in place. * Route belt around lower pulley and add the rear belt attachment, with some tension applied; it'll float in place.
* Make sure the rear belt attachment has all 4 holes aligned with the rear slider. * Make sure the rear belt attachment has all 4 holes aligned with the rear slider.
* Slide the belt block down, into the rear Z slider unit. It should click satisfyingly and hold in place even without screws! * Slide the belt block down, into the rear Z slider unit. It should click satisfyingly and hold in place even without screws!
* Add screws to lock the carriage slider bar against the belt block. * Add screws to lock the carriage slider bar against the belt block.
* Note: after a few times, this all becomes a ~2 min procedure. You can do all this with the rear panel in place, because the rear wide carriage mount and the belt block can be at different heights. * Ensure alignment for the rear pulley and lock it in place.
* Tension the rear Z belt and ensure that the motion is smooth and low-friction over the full travel.
* If using printed sliders, lubricate the bearing and slide it up and down until it coats the full full extrusion travel used.
Note: after a few times, attaching the rear Z belt becomes a ~2 min procedure. You can do all this with the rear panel in place, because the rear wide carriage mount and the belt block can be at different heights.
#### Assemble bedframe unit #### Assemble bedframe unit
![](Renders/alpha-6/bedframe.png) ![](Renders/alpha-6/bedframe.png)
@ -95,7 +102,7 @@ For conversions, of course!
* Add nozzle endstop, if present * Add nozzle endstop, if present
* Add bedframe end parts (3) with screws; leave ends someone loose, as you'll align the bedframe in place later. * Add bedframe end parts (3) with screws; leave ends someone loose, as you'll align the bedframe in place later.
* Add bed spacers, bed, and bed screws. Add loosely, align, then tighten. * Add bed spacers, bed, and bed screws. Add loosely, align, then tighten.
* Add wires to Wagos. Put high-power and low-power on separate sides. * Attach bed power and thermistor wires to the Wagos. Put high-power and low-power connections on separate sides.
* Add motor cover bumps + screws (4) * Add motor cover bumps + screws (4)
* Then add either the small bumpers or large Guitar Feet. Guitar feet need long M3 screws into the heatsets, with a fender washer or printed spacer for each. * Then add either the small bumpers or large Guitar Feet. Guitar feet need long M3 screws into the heatsets, with a fender washer or printed spacer for each.
* Adjust all Z drives to equal, high tension. The higher the tension, the better the printer will hold in place without power. * Adjust all Z drives to equal, high tension. The higher the tension, the better the printer will hold in place without power.
@ -132,7 +139,9 @@ For conversions, of course!
* Do dry-run print to confirm presence of probe macro * Do dry-run print to confirm presence of probe macro
* Enjoy never having to level the bed again!!! * Enjoy never having to level the bed again!!!
* You're now able to build pretty much any printer, too, if you were able to build, wire, config, and debug this one. Congrats! * You're now able to build pretty much any printer, too, if you were able to build, wire, config, and debug this one. Congrats!
* Post your baby's first steps to ``#tri-zero` on DoomCube. Zruncho wants to see your build! They're all unique. Really! * Post your baby's first steps to `#tri-zero` on DoomCube. `#build-showcase` and `r/VoronDesign` are great places too.
Zruncho wants to see your build, as do others!! They're all unique. Really!
# Helpful Tips # Helpful Tips