Merge branch 'main' into feature/wago_mount

CHANGES.md

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+### 2022-10-16 Update:
+
+Alpha-6.
+
+It's about time.  Plus50, new parts, doc updates.  Details in main page.
+
+#### 2022-04-18 BoxZero is out!
+
+BoxZero is a T0 spinout. It doesn't require T0, but works great with it.  The tagline:
+
+> Simplify, strengthen, and seal your Voron Zero or V0-derived printer (Tri-Zero, Double Dragon) by ditching the tophat and moving to a full-box frame.
+
+[Check it out here](https://github.com/zruncho3d/BoxZero).
+
+#### 2022-02-16 Update: $#!+ Just Got Real
+
+**(1)** We have our first Voron-serial'ed Tri-Zero!  Congrats to Red5, whose black-and-blue Tri-Zero looks great and prints great:
+
+  ![Red5](Images/red5.jpg)
+
+Definitely check out the [serial request video for V0.1382](https://www.reddit.com/r/voroncorexy/comments/simwer/trizero_t0_serial_request_v01_red5_8573/) to see what this T0 looks like, printing.  Red5 reports:
+
+> So far no issues at all with the layers...  I also have printed a few 120mm tall items with perfect vertical layers.
+
+Yes, direct-drive 1.8-degree stepper motors work great in this application!  We can get away with no reduction when the bed assembly is only ~500g, unlike printers with ~1800g flying gantries.  Direct drive is simpler, more reliable, and lower-cost.
+
+**(2)** We have our first merged Pull Requests!  Props to csch, who contributed 3 different parts in the new Mods folder.
+
+**(3)** We have our first complete release, in Alpha-5!  This includes many new or improved parts:
+
+**New:**
+* [ZeroClick](https://github.com/zruncho3d/ZeroClick) is out now, and is the default bed-probing solution for T0.  You don't need to reprint your MiniAB shroud.
+
+  ![Zeroclick](Renders/alpha-5/zeroclick.png)
+
+* [ZeroPanels](https://github.com/zruncho3d/ZeroPanels) are spun out now, and are the default enclosure solution for T0.  Prints in < 2 hrs and pops on and off.
+  ![Zeroclick](Renders/alpha-5/zeropanel_clip.png)
+* New rear corners are in:
+
+  ![Rear Lower](Renders/alpha-5/rear_lower.png)
+  Smaller, stronger (since they mount to the frame crossmember), and now you can reuse your V0.1 inlet.
+
+* [4.3" Waveshare Touchscreen](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088JTD6JN) mount added: a great way to add [KlipperScreen](https://github.com/jordanruthe/KlipperScreen), which keeps getting better.  Based on Jeoje's great Voron2.4 [Touchscreen mod](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/jeoje/4.3_Inch_Touchscreen_Mount), but adapted to fit securely in a 1515 extrusion.
+
+  ![Rear Lower](Renders/alpha-5/waveshare.png)
+
+* [Mini 12864 Display](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/mini-12864-display) mount added: a super-affordable way to get a display you can easily read from a distance.  Based on Gola's [V0 Trident Skirt Mix](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/golas/v0-trident-skirt-mix), but sized to fit T0.  You don't need the printed corners or guitar feet on your T0 with this one; instead, you can carry over the bumpers from a V0.1.
+
+| ![Front](Images/12864_front.jpeg) | ![Back](Images/12864_back.jpeg) |  ![Part](Images/12864_part.jpeg)
+| - | - | - |
+
+**Improved:**
+* The Z Nozzle Endstop is now rear-mounted;
+![Top Bed](Renders/alpha-5/top_bed_view.png)
+
+  Modified Rear Bed Mount and Front Bed Mounts have been added to match it.  You'll lose a few mm of rear Y travel, but the positioning works much better with [Double Dragon](https://github.com/zruncho3d/double-dragon), where it enables automatic toolhead offset calibration and wider beds.
+* The Rear Z Mount is now taller:
+
+  ![Front Lower](Renders/alpha-5/front_lower.png)
+  This provides 3 real benefits:
+  * Motors (whether NEMA14 or NEMA17) with long shafts no longer conflict with the power supply.
+  * Z motors can be removed now, even with the mount in place, as there's more clearance from the power supply for the allen wrench to get in there.
+  * Your T0-in-progress can sit flat with only 3 below-deck parts: 2x MotorCorners and one Rear Z Mount.
+* Front MotorSkirts now have larger cutouts to fit motors with JST pins... like mine.
+
+What's coming next?  More community contributions, more size options, and more QoL upgrades.  Maybe even a beta release... it's starting to stabilize.  (Famous last words, you say).
+
+As usual, all parts have been pre-oriented for easier printing, and the CAD has been updated.  Enjoy!
+
+#### 2022-02-08 Update
+* [ZeroClick](https://github.com/zruncho3d/ZeroClick) is out!  Fast & simple bed probing for tiny printers... like Klicky, but sized right.  The default now for Tri-Zero.  Actually, ZeroClick is a T0 spinoff proect, just like ZeroPanels, but since both have much broader relevance to more V0-ish printers, they live in other GitHub repositories.
+
+#### 2022-01-23 Update
+* [ZeroPanels](https://github.com/zruncho3d/ZeroPanels) are out!  These provide an option for easily enclosing your T0, while providing the additional gap needed to enable the carriages to stick out of the frame.  They pop on and off in seconds and reuse your clear panels and front printed parts from a V0.
+
+#### 2022-01-20 Update
+* T0-Alpha-4 released, with 11 new parts.
+* **Now supports NEMA14 and NEMA17**: use what you've got!
+  * The new MotorSkirts push the motors as far out as possible, freeing up enough space to fit larger power supplies  more easily (between motors or against the motor rear plates).  
+  * The front skirt can be swapped for a [4" touchscreen mod](https://github.com/Fleafa/VoronUsers/tree/V0.1-Trident-skirt/printer_mods/roboticator24/4inch_touchscreen_mount_for_v2.4) for [KlipperScreen](https://github.com/jordanruthe/KlipperScreen).  
+  * Guitar Feet (4x) can be added to give a nice handle with the skirts... or, retain the original V0 bumpers.
+* New rear motor mount: now, mounts to the nuts you'd already have on a V0 if doing a conversion.  This is a huge deal!  To convert a V0, you no longer need to dissassemble the rear frame.
+* New clip-in 30mm fan mounts on the sides for side-to-side airflow.
+* New clip-in front motor pulley covers.  Leave them out if you want to see Z motion or put some spinners on.
+* Slightly thinner rear Z idlers: now they fit within the extrusion thickness of 15mm.  Two benefits: more space for a probe back there (hint, hint) and now the center tensioner fits a regular 12mm BHCS, so no cut screw or washers are needed anymore.
+* CAD and STLs for alpha-4 are now available.  The original V0.1 bed assembly is gone, for a smaller file size, but Fusion is failing to export, so .step only for this one.
+* Want to contribute?  PRs would be welcome for these improvements:
+  * Integrated probing solution
+  * Rear side skirts with less material.  Duplicating the front skirts adds unnecesary material and gets in the way of a rear outlet.  I got tired and chose to release this instead of modding the skirt.  Other improvements matter more.
+  * Integrated bed Wago mount (5x2)
+
+#### 2022-01-16 Update:
+Initial BOM posted below.  No large changes are expected, but no promises are made w/an alpha!
+
+#### 2022-01-11 Update:
+* T0-Alpha-3 released: **now with less!**
+* **Now Direct-Drive** - yes, this is a huge change.  Frees up space, lower costs, and speeds up the conversion time.  And yes, regular NEMA14 motors seem to have just enough unpowered hold and enough resolution to make this work in practice.  Long (V0.1-spec) NEMA14s should be overqualified to hold the bed when the power cuts out.
+* **Now using MCMBen Trident-style skirts** - these look great and enable integrated side skirts with motor mounts.  Only needs one part and its mirror to change, the front corners, to add clearance for the front belt pulleys.  See the repo for these.
+* Simplified Z attachments: easier and faster to print, increases Z travel (122mm out of the box), and also removes 6 M2 screws.
+* New rear motor attachment piece.  It's basically a block.
+* Updated front idlers: reduces the material needed and slightly increases clearance for another mm of X travel.
+* CAD and STLs for alpha-3 are now available.  GitHub limits files to 100 MB and the Fusion export is just a bit too large.  [Go here for the Fusion export](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fiEJLRE4qYLFB2CRu8r5_06jv_Fr14W6/view?usp=sharing).
+* What's coming next?
+   * Redone integrated skirts.  The motors are too far inboard now, which wastes space and loads the motor bearings unnecessarily.  This was intentional, to minimize skirt changes, but if we go full-custom with the skirts, they can be more optimized for Tri-Zero.  For example, by extending beyond the frame boundary - to the enclosure boundary - it should be easier to enable NEMA17 motors.
+   * A probing solution is coming, called ZeroClick, but it needs a corresponding dock created before release.
+   * A rear Z motor mount that doesn't change the nut locations relative to V0.1 would be nice!
+   * Lessons from Double Dragon point the way to probably 130mm Z (!) using the same rails.
+   * ZeroPanels are coming soon: screwless, nutless, magnetless, toolless enclosure panels that attach and remove in seconds.
+   * Maybe... just maybe... a block-and-tackle Z for 2x resolution and torque.
+   * Some built-in solution for mounting Wagos under the bed.
+
+#### 2021-11-15 Update:
+* T0-Alpha-2-Green can **reliably** and automatically level itself.  Config coming soon.
+* The new flexure joints beat the KGLM03 joints in smoothness, as they converge *very* quicky when doing automatic leveling, plus drop a few bucks from the cost total.
+* Z has been increased to right about 120mm, and nearly all main Z motion parts had to change to enable this.
+* Front idlers were narrowed a bit to avoid a tiny bit of interference in the very front of the printer.  
+* CAD and STLs for alpha-2 are now available.   
+* What's coming next?
+  * Lessons from alpha-2 will lead to a much simpler alpha-3, likely with even taller Z (beyond 120mm).
+  * Different detachable probe options are under testing, including SideSwipe and a stretched Klicky-style probe.
+
+#### 2021-11-07 Update:
+* T0-Alpha-1-Green can automatically level itself, as of today!  Images and video proof are availabe on Discord.  Real life nearly matches the CAD.
+* CAD and STLs for alpha-1 now available.
+
+## Older updates
+
+* 2021-11-07: Alpha release now up on GitHub.
+* 2021-11-06: First successful triple bed leveling, after designing a whole bunch of parts.
+* 2021-11-04: After focusing on F-Zero for awhile... we’re back.
+* 2021-08-15: Zruncho’s F-Zero-Black torn down to provide parts for Tri-Zero-Proto.
+* 2021-08-15: Now using spherical joints.  After some discussion on #tri-zero, going to go with simple spherical joints to start, just like the announced-today Voron-Trident - a triple-Z Voron 1.8 follow-up.  If it’s good enough for that printer, it should be good enough for a much smaller printer.  Kinematic mounts can come later.  
+* 2021-08-14: The unofficial DOOM-Stream went well.  Now we have a CAD!  Not complete, but still useful.  Major contributions from `l.e.o.p.a.r.d`, `Ericsson`, `Kayos Maker`, and many others on the call, to figure out how to make this happen, and whether it makes any sense at all.
+* 2021-08-14: ``#tri-zero` on DoomCube Discord created - this is where design discussion will live.

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FAQ.md

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+## FAQ
+
+### What do you mean by Alpha Release?
+
+The parts actually work, the design is relatively stable, and you can build an awesome printer here.  
+
+But the parts may change.  
+
+### What is missing in the Alpha Release?
+
+As of Alpha-6, nothing *critical* is missing.
+
+However, in the future, these are likely improvements:
+* improve bottom and rear sealing
+* improve Z chain mount for easier printing and easier customization to different-size chains
+* more docs and sample configs
+
+### What extrusions do I need?
+
+NONE!  V0 bed extrusion (3x100) are repuprosed.
+
+### Does this mod mix well with the Kirigami mod?
+
+Not at all.  
+
+Kirigami is a more rigid cantilevered bed.
+
+Tri-Zero eliminates the cantilever flaw, and adds automatic bed leveling.
+
+### Is it true Tri-Zero can print better than a regular V0?
+
+Yes, for at least two reasons:
+
+(1) Perfect bed leveling improves print reliability and can improve edge quality near the bottom.
+
+(2) Compared to a flying gantry printer, there's less potential for ringing, because the part that changes directions - the toolhead - is not suspended with rails.  Only the bed is.  Zruncho's interested to get more data here.
+
+### Is a Z nozzle endstop really a requirement?
+
+**No, it's not.**  The disadvantage (Zruncho's opinion here) is that nozzle endstops can read differently when there's oozed filament on them, and you only need a small amount of error (0.05mm) to really mess up bed leveling.  If you don't have active nozzle cleaning before nozzle probing, this is a risk.  And the nozzle endstop add a little cost.
+
+But, Auto-Z is pretty awesome.  You can change nozzles and plates and do nothing and it'll just work.
+
+And - really useful - for IDEX machines you can use the nozzle endstop to calibrate the height between the two nozzles, painlessly.
+
+Point is - it's up to you, just like everything else on your T0.
+
+### What if I have questions?
+
+The full docs here, along with the CAD, should answer most questions.
+
+Still stuck?  Go to the [DoomCube Discord](https://discord.gg/doomcube) and search for a related Q on #tri-zero-forum.
+
+If you can't find anything, ask on #tri-zero-forum, or if not a Q, on #tri-zero.  This is an active channel and the best way to get support.  Make sure to add the relevant details so someone has the context to help you.  What did you try?  Where did you look? Did you look at the CAD?  There’s an active community... if your question doesn’t get a response within two day, repost it.  
+
+DO NOT ping Zruncho... or at least, save your ping for when you're really stuck.
+
+Enjoy your T0!!!

INSTRUCTIONS.md

@@ -0,0 +1,157 @@
+# Instructions
+
+In a nutshell: **it's not that hard**.
+
+Even as a first-time, scratch build, it's reasonable to do the mechanical side in only a few hours.
+
+Even if you're also doing BoxZero at the same time, the gantry can stay in place, as you work around it.
+
+The build order isn't as prescribed as a V0, because the bedframe can be easily added and removed, and because the motors can go in before or after the MotorCorners... this is an under-appreciated benefit of T0.
+
+**You can do it!**  Lots of people have, without even these instructions.
+
+When in doubt, consult the CAD, but realize that not all screws and nuts are present yet.  If there's a hole that looks like it should have a screw, measure the hole depth and assume that all screws into extrusion will need 3-4mm of hidden depth.  There are almost certainly missing steps here, but these instructions are based on building 5 T0s without a manual, from memory.
+
+And yes, the steps are a little bit high level in a few places; we'll improve these over time, with more pictures, especially.
+
+## Prep
+* **Skim the [list of PRs](https://github.com/zruncho3d/tri-zero/pulls) on the GitHub** - is there anything new and useful for you?
+* Print parts per [parts guide](PARTS.md)
+* Print [NDNs](https://github.com/zruncho3d/f-zero/tree/main/STLs/NoDropNuts) matched to your extrusions - more than you think you'll need.
+
+## Pre-build
+* Add heatsets where needed
+  * Note that the bed attachments (3) require recessed heatsets.
+* Add nuts to nutbars (one on, one off) and loosely attach rails to them
+* Loosely attach pulleys to motors
+* Add 2 screws to each belt-retention part (3 parts total).  They use formed threads.  Push down hard until the screw is started and keep the hexdriver aligned.  
+* Build a [ZeroClick](https://github.com/zruncho3d/ZeroClick), per the instructions.
+
+## V0 Disassembly
+For conversions, of course!
+* Remove the V0 Z assembly
+  * .. but leave the rear verticals in place
+  * Remove bedframe (possibly by removing the rail M2 screws... that's one way)
+  * Take apart the bedframe, as you'll need the 100mm extrusions later
+  * Remove Z railstops
+  * Remove rear Z motor/stepper unit and printed mount
+* Remove baseplate
+  * Loosen screws on front horizontal extrusion
+  * Loosen all screws on front verticals so that the baseplate can come out; you may need to loosen these screws enough to get the front verticals out.
+  * Cut 20mm-wide, 15mm-deep notches on each side of the original baseplate, matching the CAD and the DXF.  Use flush cutters with ABS or a dremel or band saw with ACM.
+* Remove toolhead for ZeroClick attachment
+  * Frees up space to get to work, but optional.
+
+## Build
+* Ensure you have all needed screws preloaded, likely with NDNs.
+* Slide rails or sliders into place
+  * Loosened frame screws, plus twisting the frame, should make this possible in-place.
+  * Use V0 frame alignment jig parts for rails.  
+* Slide in the modified baseplate, along with the front extrusion.  
+  * Corner cutouts to the front!
+
+#### Assemble lower frame & skirt parts
+
+
+* Attach MotorCorners/screws and rear corners to the frame
+* Attach fan skirts to the frame
+* Add motors into the MotorCorners and add 4 screws each
+
+#### Assemble front Z parts
+![](Renders/alpha-6/front_idler.png)
+* Assemble front idlers (2)
+  * Forming threads for idlers will take a little time.  
+    * Ideally, add a washer on the outer end of the bearing stack (against the screw head), and tighten all the way.
+* Add each Z joint assembly to each front carriage.
+  * Only 3 M2 screws are needed; a shorter M2x6 goes on the bottom outer side; longer M2x8 screws are up to with the z joints.   The flat part is on top.
+* Align pulleys so that belts have 0.5-1mm of clearance from the frame when tensioned. **Don't fully tighten yet.**
+* Add front idler attachments; the previous railstop is removed and its nut goes to this part.  The semicircle points downward.  Another added nut goes here for the attachment, plus one below for the moving part.
+* Add front idler units
+  * Add a screw for locking in place and ensuring it can slide up and down; you tighten this one (against an extrusion) when the tension is set.
+  * Add a screw for adjusting the tension
+* Add front belts.  Attach with minimal extra belt on top first.  Then snake the belt around, past the pulley, up and to the attachment.  Leave a bit of extra to grab in the future (say, 15 teeth to start; can always trim later, and only when both sides are tensioned fully.)
+* Ensure alignment for the front pulleys and lock them down.
+* Tension the tensioner and ensure smooth travel across the full range of motion.
+* If using printed sliders, lubricate the bearing and slide it up and down until it coats the full full extrusion travel used.
+
+#### Assemble rear Z
+![](Renders/alpha-6/rear_z.png)
+* Build rear Z tensioner unit, with screw and bearing stack
+  * Run rear Z belt through it first, then add the bearing stack.
+  * No washers needed; they're built into the part
+* Add rear motor mount
+* Add rear motor to rear motor mount
+* Add rear idler top unit, which connects the two rear verticals.  Preload side screws into this one, without NDNs, then slide it down and tighten the 2 top side screws.
+  * The covered side faces out and should be visible - so you won't see the tensioner at all in the correct orientation.  *Stealthy!*
+* Add rear Z slider unit.  4 to 8 m2 screws are fine, with 6 preferred.  It should move smoothly.
+* Add rear Z joint into rear slider.
+* Attach tensioner screw and add the tensioner unit (the one with a belt already, right?).  Screw the tensioner in a turn or two - the minimum amount to keep it on.
+* Route belt around lower pulley and add the rear belt attachment, with some tension applied; it'll float in place.
+  * Make sure the rear belt attachment has all 4 holes aligned with the rear slider.
+* Slide the belt block down, into the rear Z slider unit.  It should click satisfyingly and hold in place even without screws!
+* Add screws to lock the carriage slider bar against the belt block.
+* Ensure alignment for the rear pulley and lock it in place.
+* Tension the rear Z belt and ensure that the motion is smooth and low-friction over the full travel.
+* If using printed sliders, lubricate the bearing and slide it up and down until it coats the full full extrusion travel used.
+
+Note: after a few times, attaching the rear Z belt becomes a ~2 min procedure.  You can do all this with the rear panel in place, because the rear wide carriage mount and the belt block can be at different heights.
+
+#### Assemble bedframe unit
+![](Renders/alpha-6/bedframe.png)
+* Assemble nozzle endstop, if desired
+* Add 3x100 extrusions, screws/nuts, and Wagos
+* Add nozzle endstop, if present
+* Add bedframe end parts (3) with screws; leave ends someone loose, as you'll align the bedframe in place later.
+* Add bed spacers, bed, and bed screws.  Add loosely, align, then tighten.
+* Attach bed power and thermistor wires to the Wagos.  Put high-power and low-power connections on separate sides.
+* Add motor cover bumps + screws (4)
+* Then add either the small bumpers or large Guitar Feet.  Guitar feet need long M3 screws into the heatsets, with a fender washer or printed spacer for each.
+* Adjust all Z drives to equal, high tension.  The higher the tension, the better the printer will hold in place without power.
+
+#### Last steps
+
+* Add Z chain and connect wire bundle.
+  * It should snap into place.  If it doesn't, size variation is the culprint.  There maybe a mod for you... check the PRs and ask on `#tri-zero` if this is the case.
+* Add bedframe unit and connect to wire bundle.
+* Re-add Power Supply; yes, it's tight in there, but it should just fit, with 0.5mm clearance or so.
+![](Renders/alpha-4/bottom_iso.png)
+![](Renders/alpha-4/bottom_power_supply.png)
+
+## Config/Bringup
+
+* Do all the wiring and config to get the extra 2 ports and connect up a probe.
+  * If you need a good starter config for your particular board, all Voron Trident configs are basically the same - triple-Z - so all can serve as a starting point.
+* Set bed to the right height
+  * You may need to adjust the length of the 3 bed-retention screws, add washers, or change bed spacers. Beds, frames, magnets,  and flexplates vary in length; 1/2" (12.7) is a good starting point, but often a few extra mm are needed.  The nozzle should just touch, with a tiny bit of extra travel available.
+* Adjust Klipper config
+  * However you did it... add the 2x extra Z drivers
+  * Add a `z_tilt_adjust` section and configure it
+  * Add a `probe` section and configure it for your probe pin
+  * Add a `safe_z_home` section; should match the location of your nozzle endstop, if using one.
+  * Add a virtual endstop section for the probe, if desired
+  * Set up [Auto-Z](https://github.com/protoloft/klipper_z_calibration) if desired
+  * Adjust max configure Z height based on a measurement
+  * Add provided probe attach/detach macro or configure Klicky macros if you're using them
+  * Adjust max Y if you modified the X bar
+* Test probe using `QUERY_ENDSTOPS` or the page in your UI.
+* Test Z motor directions using `STEPPER_BUZZ` and adjust if necessary; they should go down (+Z) first, then back up.
+* Test probe attach and detach macros
+* Configure Z height or tune auto-Z for a reasonable first layer
+* Do dry-run print to confirm presence of probe macro
+* Enjoy never having to level the bed again!!!
+  * You're now able to build pretty much any printer, too, if you were able to build, wire, config, and debug this one.  Congrats!
+* Post your baby's first steps to `#tri-zero` on DoomCube.   `#build-showcase` and `r/VoronDesign` are great places too.
+
+Zruncho wants to see your build, as do others!!  They're all unique.  Really!
+
+# Helpful Tips
+
+* **NoDropNuts.**  Use them, especially on the frame!  But not the bedframe, as they don't add much there.  Get them from the F0 repo.  Overextrude them to fit tightly in place but still be moved with force.
+* Assemble the bed frame loosely.  Screw the 3 corner-joint screws in.  THEN tighten the bed frame, so it experiences no forces except mild twisting.
+* Yes, the heatsets go deep into the bed frame ends.
+* Go with a beefy NEMA17 motor if possible.  Improves positioning accuracy due to more torque enabling more usable microstepping, and cheaper too.
+* To get the right rear nozzle endstop position quickly, don't attach the screws to the hartk endstop board.  Get the height, THEN attach the screws.  Much easier to adjust the height this way.
+* Share your progress on `#tri-zero`.  It's really motivating to see everyone's creations and learn from them.
+* **Just do it.**  There is no lower-cost way to get ABL on your V0, especially for fresh builds.  Even if you don't care about ABL, the build is more straightforward.
+
+

Mods/csch0/SpiderMount/README.md

@@ -0,0 +1,16 @@
+# Overview
+
+Mount for the spider mainboard, supports the [Wire Fingers](https://github.com/zruncho3d/double-dragon/blob/main/STLs/Optional/Wire_Fingers_x6.stl) created by [zruncho3d](https://github.com/zruncho3d).
+
+## BOM
+* 4x M3 6mm
+* 2x M3 8mm
+* 6x M3 Heat inserts (from the V0 BOM)
+* 6x [Wire Fingers](https://github.com/zruncho3d/double-dragon/blob/main/STLs/Optional/Wire_Fingers_x6.stl)
+
+
+![render](Images/render.png)
+
+Installed it looks like this on my tri-zero.
+
+![installed](Images/installed.jpg)

PARTS.md

@@ -0,0 +1,90 @@
+
+### Parts List (vs V0)
+
+NOTE: the parts listed here represent only those which go on T0-specific parts.  The gantry, toolhead, and frame can be kept stock.
+
+#### Required
+
+**Z drive and bed  parts**:
+
+| Category | Part | Qty | Notes |
+| - | - | - | - |
+| Z Drives | NEMA14 or NEMA17 motors | 3 | For any build size, 52mm NEMA14 or 40mm-48mm NEMA17 1.8-degree steppers are ideal.<p></p> Smaller (33mm NEMA14 or pancake NEMA17) and 0.9-degree steppers will be less likely to hold the bed up when the power cuts out, leading to more time needed for bed leveling, and possibly a failure to auto-level if the tilt exceeds the probing distance.  You can work around this possibility by parking the bedframe at the bottom when not in use, to get away with smaller motors.  <p></p>Mix and match should be fine; use what you've got. <p></p>  [Recommended NEMA17 motors](https://www.amazon.com/STEPPERONLINE-Stepper-63-74oz-Connector-Extruder/dp/B07LCK19D5/) - 39mm depth leave more internal space vs 48mm-length steppers and has plenty of hold.
+| Z Drives | GT2 belt | 3x~500mm | Add 100mm for Plus size if adding Z height.
+| Z Drives | GT2 16t pulleys | 3 | Z Drive pulleys
+| Z Drives | MGN7H 150mm | 2 | Ideally, upgrade to MGN9C on the X carriage, then get only one of these to repurpose for a front Z drive.  See other notes below.
+| Z Drives | F623 bearings | 6 | Idlers |
+| Z Bed | Metal spacers | 3 | Typically 1/2" (12.7mm) or slightly larger, depending on the height of your bed.  Can be loose; will be fine, once tightened down.|
+
+**Frame**
+
+No new extrusions are required, because the original V0 bedframe 100mm extrusions are repuprosed into a new T-shaped bedrame.  Nice, huh?
+
+**Motion**
+
+See above for options: a medium-preload MGN9C with matching carriage is highly recommended, with an MGN7H medium-preload option not far behind.  Why mention this?  Because you don't want toolhead flop to affect bed-probe results or print quality.  
+
+[This V0 carriage](https://github.com/zruncho3d/DuelingZero/blob/main/STLs/Low_Side_X_Carriage_x1.stl) is recommended to match.  
+
+
+**Electronics**:
+
+Two additional Z-drive stepper ports are needed.  Pretty much anything will work, and the Klipper changes are minimal.
+
+For conversions, an added SKR Pico, SKR E3, ERCF EZ BRD, Fly-RPFmex - taped to the power supply - will work great.  The only downside is the need to update two different boards for Klipper.
+
+If doing a larger build, much more space is available; consider starting with a 6-stepper-minimum board, such as a BTT Octopus, BTT Manta 8p, Fysetc Spider, Mellow Fly, Fysetc S6, or whatever's the latest hotness.  
+
+The most interesting, lowest-cost option: a 5-stepper board (like an SKR 2) with a CAN bus toolhead.
+
+**Fasteners**:
+
+The list below almost certainly over-estimates, because it doesn't factor in screws that are freed up when doing a V0 conversion, especially for Z drives and skirt parts.  Regardless, if you get the amounts below, you should have plenty.  Recommendation: buy 50-packs of the most common screw sizes so you don't have to count or worry about it and can do the next mod without waiting for shipping.
+
+| Category | Part | Qty | Notes |
+| - | - | - | - |
+| Fasteners | M2x10 self-tapping | 2 | For ZeroClick |
+| Fasteners | M2x6 BHCS or SHCS | 22+ | For retaining the Z attachments in rear (2), 6-8 for the rear Z bar, nutbars (2x6), plus one per front idler (2) |
+| Fasteners | M2x8 BHCS or SHCS | 4+ | For retaining the Z belt attachments in front (2x2); use this size for rear Z attachment if using printed sliders |
+| Fasteners | M2 nuts | 12 | For M2 nutbars
+| Fasteners | M3x6 BHCS | 47+ | For skirts (~24), bumps (16), ZeroClick probe-grab screw (1), belt attachment strengthening (6)
+| Fasteners | M3x8 BHCS | 24 | bedframe extrusion connections (14), front motor mounts to motors (8?), rear motor mount vertical screws, Rear Z motor mount horizontal screws (2)
+| Fasteners | M3x16 BHCS | 3 | For Z bed attachment (vertical), for Z idler tensioning (vertical)
+| Fasteners | M3x12 BHCS | 4 | Rear Z belt attachment (horizontal)
+| Fasteners | M3x10 BHCS | 4 | rear Z motor attachment
+| Fasteners | M3 nuts | Yes | One per most M3 screws
+| Fasteners | M3 heatsets | 22+ | For bed joints (3), motor skirts (4x3), rear z belt attachment (4), tensioner (1), fans skirt (2)
+
+
+#### Optional
+| Category | Part | Qty | Notes |
+| - | - | - | - |
+| Bed | Sexbolt endstop board/kit, **not soldered** | 1 | A sexbolt endstop enables Auto-Z. Optionally, repurpose the original Z endstop and use the ZeroClick probe as a virtual endstop instead. Ensure you get a non-soldered board, as the default presoldered one from DFH comes soldered to the wrong side. |
+| Frame | Guitar Feet | 4 | Optional; same as used with Voron Trident.  Can use original V0.1 rubber feet instead.  Just put a nut in the foot, squeeze it, and use an M3 BHCS from the other side
+| Skirts | 40mm Fans | 2 | Recommended for airflow down there.
+
+## Build Guide
+
+In this repo are all of the STLs needed to build a Tri-Zero Alpha which are not in another repo (primary V0.1).
+
+All parts should be already be in print-ready orientation, with seam in the +Y dir, and no supports are needed.  Standard Voron settings, or lowered infill and fewer perims, should work fine for most parts:
+- 4 perimeters
+- 40% infill, depending on the part
+- 0.2mm layer height
+
+The MotorSkirts and Rear Corners are happy with 20% infill, for a bit of print speedup.
+
+Note that you will need all the STLs in the top-level STLs folder in the quantities listed at the end of each part name, with a few exceptions:
+* Between NEMA14 and NEMA17, you'll need to pick one for each motor.  You can actually mix and match them, though.
+  * `Rear_Motor_Mount`
+  * `Motor_Corner_Screw_In`
+* For the front bed mount, pick between the main and extended one.
+  * `Front_Bed_Mount` for usual V0 beds
+  * `Front_Bed_Mount_Extended` for MRW-style beds which stick out by 5mm, which means they need to be shifted forwards by 5mm to expose the nozzle endstop to the nozzle.
+* Front corner bumps are technically optional, but they're there by default.  You can skip them and directly add a bumper to the farthest-out screw holes with an M3 screw and nut if you'd like.  Don't worry, you won't be judged for it.
+
+Plus, you'll want to consider these optional STLs from a few external repos:
+- [No-drop nuts](https://github.com/zruncho3d/f-zero/tree/main/STLs/NoDropNuts)
+- [More M2 nutbars from V0](https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-0/blob/Voron0.1/STLs/M2_Nut_Adapter_Rotated_x5.stl)
+- [ZeroPanels](https://github.com/zruncho3d/ZeroPanels), especially Tecnologic-style ones
+- [BoxZero](https://github.com/zruncho3d/BoxZero)

PLUS50.md

@@ -0,0 +1,94 @@
+# Plus50
+
+| ![](Renders/alpha-6/front-red.png) | ![](Renders/alpha-6/iso-red.png)  |
+| - | - |
+| Front | Iso |
+
+Plus50 adds 50mm of X and Y travel.  
+
+At a high level, that parts are mostly the same, including V0 and the T0 gantry and toolhead.  A few extra parts in the [Plus50](STLs/Plus50) directory are needed to widen the rear umbilical, place the bed optimally, and span the wider skirts.
+
+The Plus50 size just feels right for [BoxZero](https://github.com/zruncho3d/BoxZero).  While you *could* use existing, available Double Dragon parts to extend a tophat, it's not worth it.  Too many parts to print, too many fasteners, and too many areas to seal.
+
+We'll assume that you go [BoxZero](https://github.com/zruncho3d/BoxZero) if you go Plus50, even if that's not strictly necessary.  The BoxZero corners add rigidity, easier sealing, and easier mounting.  You won't regret them at either size.  If doing 400mm verticals, use `Top_Corner_Mini_x4.stl`, unless you really want extra space for Z.
+
+For Z, you have two choices:
+- **(1)** Keep Z travel the same, at 120mm.  Go with a 50mm taller frame, mostly retaining V0 frame parts and reusing XY rails for Z axes.  This setup gives needed space for umbilical clearance.
+- **(2)** Add 50mm Z travel with 200mm MGN7H rails to match the XY increase and also add umbilical clearance.
+
+In both cases, printed sliders are an option.
+
+## Parts Needed
+
+### Frame: New-build-specific
+You'll need the following extrusions:
+* 13x 250mm (horizontals, including bedframe)
+* 4x 400mm (for verticals)
+* 1x 100mm (for rear of bedframe)
+
+### Frame: V0-conversion-specific
+For reference, a stock V0 frame has:
+* 16x 200mm
+* 3x 100mm
+
+To convert, you'll need added extrusion content.  We'll assume you want to put the colors in the front, and can use m3 set screws to connect extrusions with stock 50mm chunks, per the [method noted in BoxZero](https://github.com/zruncho3d/BoxZero#frame-and-corners), using the extrusion wrench available there to avoid marring the extrusions.  
+
+Here's what they look like on Dueling Zero, in the back:
+
+![Iso](Images/mixed_extrusions.png)
+
+In practice, this method looks great, even if the rear is black or silver; Technologic-style ZeroPanels will cover up the extensions in the front anyway, so you'll never see them.
+
+A suggestion:
+* Front Verticals: 2x, 200+200, joined (color)
+* Side Horizontals: 6x, 50+200 joined (color)
+* Front Horizontals: 2x, 50+200 joined (color)
+* Bedframe Front: 1x, 100+50+100 joined (color)
+* Bedframe Rear: 1x, 50+100 joined (color or no color)
+* Rear Horizontals, 3x 50+100 joined (no color)
+* Rear Verticals: 2x 200+200 joined (no color)
+
+This has black for everything in the back, with 50mm chunks on the black part, and color in the front; yes, you will have some colored extrusions left over.  IF you have the dark bits forward, it will save the need for drilling 4 of the holes that connect to X crossbars, but that's about it.  And if you make the rear verticals colored, you'll have 50mm of floating black bits, for better or worse.
+
+
+So, you need:
+* 10-ish 50mm chunks: [MBXL Amazon link for 8x50 + 4x100](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XJ4T6TW)
+* 7-ish 200mm chunks: [MBXL Amazon link for 4-pk](https://www.amazon.com/MakerBeam-XL-Anodized-200x15x15mm-Pieces/dp/B06XHQH9WH)
+
+None of this is set in stone.  You should choose extrusions to match your color desires and ability to chop existing extrusions.  You should place the specific extrusions as much as possible in places where you won't need to drill too many holes.  But good news!  Your original V0 drilling guide will work just fine here.
+
+No frame pic yet showing 50mm chunks, but hopefully these words make it clear.
+
+### Common: New or Conversion
+
+**Z Motors**:
+
+Go for large NEMA17 motors, 40mm body length or larger.  You want the strongest motor possible to resist motion when unpowered, given that the bedframe is much heavier with a larger bed and longer extrusions.
+
+**Larger Bed**
+
+Travel motion goes up to 170x170 in size, with 5mm reserved for a nozzle endstop if present, so something near this range is best.   Something smaller (like 160x160)  leaves space for an endstop Z switch, purge bucket, and/or even a nozzle wiper.  Something larger (like 180x180) leaves clearance at the ends for a more consistent bed temp, as well as heats up the chamber faster if a larger bed fits.
+
+Three main choices here:
+* Voron-style MIC6 1/4" Al bed with magnetic tape, in Annex-K3-size, with AC or DC heater
+  * [Funssor](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803530287164.html)
+* Prusa Mini 190x190-ish thick circuit-board with embedded magnets, DC typically
+  * [Fysetc](https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800748491824.html)
+* Mandala Rose Works-style bed with embedded magnets, with AC or DC heater
+  * [MRW Micron 185 magbed](https://mandalaroseworks.com/collections/micron-185)
+  * [MRW Micron 160 magbed](https://mandalaroseworks.com/collections/micron-160mm)
+
+**Panels**
+
+Assuming 400mm blind corners:
+
+| Category | Part | Qty | Notes | Link |
+| - | - | - | - | - |
+| Panels | 262x382x3mm panel | 3 | Side and front panels, clear acrylic
+| Panels | 262x262x3mm panel | 1 | Top panel, clear acrylic
+| Panels | 262x382x3mm panel | 3 | Rear panel, ACM or ABS
+| Panels | Plus50 DXF  | 1 | Baseplate, ACM or ABS
+
+**Longer XY rails**
+* +50 --> 1x 200mm MGN9C (for x, TODO link)
+* +50 --> 2x 200mm MGN7H (for y, TODO link)

README.md

@@ -1,225 +1,153 @@
 # Tri-Zero - a triple-belted-Z V0 mod
+
 a Voron Zero mod to add Automatic Bed Leveling - under $100, in only a few hours.
 
-**T0** provides the quality-of-life benefits of flying-gantry mods like [F-Zero](https://github.com/zruncho3d/f-zero), but in a fraction of the build time, at much lower cost.
+**Make every first layer perfect** and never adjust a bed screw again!  :tada:   
+
+Upgrade your V0, or build a T0 from scratch with an augmented V0 kit.  
+
+#### **Now with a Plus50 size, which adds 50mm X and Y travel, to 170mmx170mm:**
+
+| ![Iso with skirt](Renders/alpha-6/iso-red.png) |
+| - |
+| T0 Plus50 with optional [BoxZero](https://github.com/zruncho3d/BoxZero) mod, Tecnologic-style [ZeroPanels](https://github.com/zruncho3d/BoxZero), and Mini 12864 display. |
+
+| ![Iso](Renders/alpha-4/iso.png) | ![Iso with skirt](Renders/alpha-6/iso_green_t0_brighter.png)
+| - | - |
+| T0 applied to V0 | T0 + [BoxZero](https://github.com/zruncho3d/BoxZero), [ZeroPanels](https://github.com/zruncho3d/BoxZero), & display.
+
+### Why T0, vs other [Printers for Ants](https://3dprintersforants.com)?
+* Less $, fewer failure points, and less potential for ringing than flying-gantry printers
+* Faster Z motion compared to lead-screw printers, with no possibility of Z-banding
+* Retains full space for electronics on the back
+* Uses spare steppers you probably already have
 
 *You don't even need to take the frame apart to do a V0 conversion.*
 
-Main features:
-* Perfect Z layers, quiet motion, and great bed stability from a triple belted Z axes
-* Integrated Klicky-style bed probing with [ZeroClick](https://github.com/zruncho3d/ZeroClick)
-* Rear endstop enables [automatic Z calibration](https://github.com/protoloft/klipper_z_calibration) and more
-* Snap-in, quick-print side panels with [ZeroPanels](https://github.com/zruncho3d/ZeroPanels)
-* Easy bed attachment and removal: 3 screws each
-* Easy belt attachment and removal: fully tool-less
-* Easy single-screw tensioning on all axes
-* Easy to assemble: no hard-to-access screws or assembly-order requirements
-* Your choice of display: 4.3" Touchscreen, 12864, V0 Mini Display, or blank panel.  
-* Supports NEMA14 and NEMA17 Z motors: use whatever you've got lying around!
+T0 is actively developed and community-supported, with over 20 builds completed, or in progress, as of October 2022.  Here are a few sample builds:
 
-*This repo includes everything you need to build your own T0, including CAD and STLs for printed parts, as well as a list of parts.*
+![Iso](Images/sample_builds.png)
 
-And if you wanna get really crazy... this mod combines well with [Double Dragon](https://github.com/zruncho3d/double-dragon), an IDEX V0 mod.
+<p></p>
 
-**Make every first layer perfect!** Upgrade your V0 or build a fresh T0.  
+**Compatibility with the V0 ecosystem of kits, parts, and mods is a huge benefit**.
 
-Join us on the `#tri-zero` on the [DoomCube Discord](https://discord.gg/doomcube) for any questions, comments, or just to see the latest dev activity.
+Plus, this mod pairs beautifully with the full family of Tri-Zero spinoffs:
+* [BoxZero](https://github.com/zruncho3d/BoxZero) adds stability, easier sealing, and scalability for Plus50
+* [ZeroPanels](https://github.com/zruncho3d/ZeroPanels) enables side panels to snap in/out in seconds, with an easy hinged top option
+* [Dueling Zero](https://github.com/zruncho3d/DuelingZero) is a fully-boxed Tri-Zero with dual  gantries (!?!)
 
-![Front](Renders/alpha-4/front.png)
+.. as well as [Double Dragon](https://github.com/zruncho3d/double-dragon), the IDEX V0 mod.
 
-| ![Iso](Renders/alpha-4/iso.png) | ![Iso with skirt](Renders/alpha-4/iso_with_skirt.png)  |
-| - | - |
+Join us on the [DoomCube Discord](https://discord.gg/doomcube) for any questions, comments, or just to see the latest dev activity.
+*  Use `#tri-zero-forum` for support questions and build updates
+*  Use `#tri-zero` for general chat and dev activity
+
+Or, just straight to detailed docs:
+- #### [Parts](PARTS.md): sourcing details
+- #### [Instructions](INSTRUCTIONS.md): build steps, prep, and more
+- #### [Plus50 size](PLUS50.md): sourcing and build notes for Plus50
+- #### [FAQ](FAQ.md): Common questions, answered
+- #### [Change](FAQ.md): Visual summary of past changes
+
+## Overview and features
+
+| ![Iso](Renders/alpha-4/iso.png) | ![Front](Renders/alpha-4/front.png) | ![Iso with skirt](Renders/alpha-4/iso_with_skirt.png)  |
+| - | - | - |
 
 | ![Bottom Iso](Renders/alpha-4/bottom_iso.png) | ![Bed Frame](Renders/alpha-2/bed_asm_no_bed.png) | ![Bottom Z](Renders/alpha-4/bottom_z.png) |
 | - | - | - |
 
-(NOTE: renders are for alpha-4)
+* Perfect Z layers, quiet motion, and great bed stability from 3 belted Z axes; no floppy cantilever here
+* Reliable, stable Klicky-style bed probing with the [ZeroClick](https://github.com/zruncho3d/ZeroClick) detachable probe
+* Optional rear endstop enables [automatic Z calibration](https://github.com/protoloft/klipper_z_calibration) and even auto-Z-offset for [IDEX](https://github.com/zruncho3d/double-dragon)
+* Easy bed attachment and removal with built-in Wago mounts: 3 screws each
+* Easy belt attachment and removal: fully tool-less
+* Easy single-screw tensioning on all Z axes
+* Easy to assemble: no hard-to-access screws or assembly-order nuances
+* Your choice of display: 4.3" Touchscreen, Mini 12864, V0 Mini Display, or blank panel
+* Supports large NEMA14 and mid-to-large NEMA17 Z motors
+* Clean, minimal aesthetics with no-bridge, no-extreme-overhang parts
 
-## Latest Release: Alpha-5
+*This repo includes everything you need to build your own T0, including CAD and STLs for printed parts, as well as a list of parts:*
 
-Ready to print!  What are you waiting for?  Multiple T0s are printing or on their way to printing soon.
+## Latest Release: Alpha-6
 
-### Updates
+**There's never been a better time to deploy this mod.**
 
-#### 2022-02-16 Update: $#!+ Just Got Real
+The community is growing.  20+ builds completed.  
 
-**(1)** We have our first Voron-serial'ed Tri-Zero!  Congrats to Red5, whose black-and-blue Tri-Zero looks great and prints great:
+With Alpha-6, the docs are vastly expanded and improved.  You can expect more good stuff to come, to make this mod  easier and faster to build.
 
-  ![Red5](Images/red5.jpg)
+**New in this release:**
 
-Definitely check out the [serial request video for V0.1382](https://www.reddit.com/r/voroncorexy/comments/simwer/trizero_t0_serial_request_v01_red5_8573/) to see what this T0 looks like, printing.  Red5 reports:
+| ![Iso](Renders/alpha-6/iso-both.png) | ![Iso with skirt](Renders/alpha-6/center_brace_with_wagos.png) | ![Front](Renders/alpha-6/mgn7h_slider_top_iso_perspective.png) | ![Iso with skirt](Renders/alpha-6/low_side_x_carriage_iso_ortho.png) | ![Iso with skirt](Renders/alpha-6/motorskirts_side.png)  |
+| - | - | - | - | - |
+| Plus50 Size | Integrated-Wago Bedframe | Rail-less Z Option | No-flush-cut carriages | 40mm Side Fans |
 
-> So far no issues at all with the layers...  I also have printed a few 120mm tall items with perfect vertical layers.
+* **Plus50**, or **T0+** for short, is a new, larger, supported build size.  120x120 is good, but 170x170 is more usable, for little extra money.  T0+ can even be a cost-effective conversion for a V0, using 50mm extrusion chunks.  Shop the new [Plus Size](PLUS50.md) section for this year's newest model.
 
-Yes, direct-drive 1.8-degree stepper motors work great in this application!  We can get away with no reduction when the bed assembly is only ~500g, unlike printers with ~1800g flying gantries.  Direct drive is simpler, more reliable, and lower-cost.
+* **Bedframe with integrated Wago mounts**: Oh yes. The new "Connect 4" bedframe center makes bedframe attach/detach even easier, with up to 8 Wago connectors to support a bed heater, thermal fuse, optional AC ground, endstop, and thermistor wires.  Pop the Wagos in and out, toollessly.
 
-**(2)** We have our first merged Pull Requests!  Props to csch, who contributed 3 different parts in the new Mods folder.
+* **Rail-Less Z Carriages**: Printed replacements for MGN7H rails that slide in an extrusion channel! Faster to install and saves money, too.  Used successfully on at least 4 builds at this point, including [Dueling Zero](https://github.com/zruncho3d/DuelingZero), so it's time to be more public about them.  *Currently considered experimental*, as the design is likely to change, and there is no long-term wear data on them.
 
-**(3)** We have our first complete release, in Alpha-5!  This includes many new or improved parts:
+* **No-flush-cut MGN9C carriage** Inspired by the [Double Dragon](https://github.com/zruncho3d/double-dragon) MGN9C mount; another T0 spinoff, first seen on [Dueling Zero](https://github.com/zruncho3d/DuelingZero).  No more one-time-use belts!
 
-**New:**
-* [ZeroClick](https://github.com/zruncho3d/ZeroClick) is out now, and is the default bed-probing solution for T0.  You don't need to reprint your MiniAB shroud.
+* **40mm fan skirt**: A potentially quieter option.
 
-  ![Zeroclick](Renders/alpha-5/zeroclick.png)
+**Improved in this release:**
 
-* [ZeroPanels](https://github.com/zruncho3d/ZeroPanels) are spun out now, and are the default enclosure solution for T0.  Prints in < 2 hrs and pops on and off.
-  ![Zeroclick](Renders/alpha-5/zeropanel_clip.png)
-* New rear corners are in:
-
-  ![Rear Lower](Renders/alpha-5/rear_lower.png)
-  Smaller, stronger (since they mount to the frame crossmember), and now you can reuse your V0.1 inlet.
-
-* [4.3" Waveshare Touchscreen](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088JTD6JN) mount added: a great way to add [KlipperScreen](https://github.com/jordanruthe/KlipperScreen), which keeps getting better.  Based on Jeoje's great Voron2.4 [Touchscreen mod](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/jeoje/4.3_Inch_Touchscreen_Mount), but adapted to fit securely in a 1515 extrusion.
-
-  ![Rear Lower](Renders/alpha-5/waveshare.png)
-
-* [Mini 12864 Display](https://deepfriedhero.in/products/mini-12864-display) mount added: a super-affordable way to get a display you can easily read from a distance.  Based on Gola's [V0 Trident Skirt Mix](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/golas/v0-trident-skirt-mix), but sized to fit T0.  You don't need the printed corners or guitar feet on your T0 with this one; instead, you can carry over the bumpers from a V0.1.
-
-| ![Front](Images/12864_front.jpeg) | ![Back](Images/12864_back.jpeg) |  ![Part](Images/12864_part.jpeg)
-| - | - | - |
-
-**Improved:**
-* The Z Nozzle Endstop is now rear-mounted;
-![Top Bed](Renders/alpha-5/top_bed_view.png)
-
-  Modified Rear Bed Mount and Front Bed Mounts have been added to match it.  You'll lose a few mm of rear Y travel, but the positioning works much better with [Double Dragon](https://github.com/zruncho3d/double-dragon), where it enables automatic toolhead offset calibration and wider beds.
-* The Rear Z Mount is now taller:
-
-  ![Front Lower](Renders/alpha-5/front_lower.png)
-  This provides 3 real benefits:
-  * Motors (whether NEMA14 or NEMA17) with long shafts no longer conflict with the power supply.
-  * Z motors can be removed now, even with the mount in place, as there's more clearance from the power supply for the allen wrench to get in there.
-  * Your T0-in-progress can sit flat with only 3 below-deck parts: 2x MotorCorners and one Rear Z Mount.
-* Front MotorSkirts now have larger cutouts to fit motors with JST pins... like mine.
-
-What's coming next?  More community contributions, more size options, and more QoL upgrades.  Maybe even a beta release... it's starting to stabilize.  (Famous last words, you say).
-
-As usual, all parts have been pre-oriented for easier printing, and the CAD has been updated.  Enjoy!
-
-#### 2022-02-08 Update
-* [ZeroClick](https://github.com/zruncho3d/ZeroClick) is out!  Fast & simple bed probing for tiny printers... like Klicky, but sized right.  The default now for Tri-Zero.  Actually, ZeroClick is a T0 spinoff proect, just like ZeroPanels, but since both have much broader relevance to more V0-ish printers, they live in other GitHub repositories.
-
-#### 2022-01-23 Update
-* [ZeroPanels](https://github.com/zruncho3d/ZeroPanels) are out!  These provide an option for easily enclosing your T0, while providing the additional gap needed to enable the carriages to stick out of the frame.  They pop on and off in seconds and reuse your clear panels and front printed parts from a V0.
-
-#### 2022-01-20 Update
-* T0-Alpha-4 released, with 11 new parts.
-* **Now supports NEMA14 and NEMA17**: use what you've got!
-  * The new MotorSkirts push the motors as far out as possible, freeing up enough space to fit larger power supplies  more easily (between motors or against the motor rear plates).  
-  * The front skirt can be swapped for a [4" touchscreen mod](https://github.com/Fleafa/VoronUsers/tree/V0.1-Trident-skirt/printer_mods/roboticator24/4inch_touchscreen_mount_for_v2.4) for [KlipperScreen](https://github.com/jordanruthe/KlipperScreen).  
-  * Guitar Feet (4x) can be added to give a nice handle with the skirts... or, retain the original V0 bumpers.
-* New rear motor mount: now, mounts to the nuts you'd already have on a V0 if doing a conversion.  This is a huge deal!  To convert a V0, you no longer need to dissassemble the rear frame.
-* New clip-in 30mm fan mounts on the sides for side-to-side airflow.
-* New clip-in front motor pulley covers.  Leave them out if you want to see Z motion or put some spinners on.
-* Slightly thinner rear Z idlers: now they fit within the extrusion thickness of 15mm.  Two benefits: more space for a probe back there (hint, hint) and now the center tensioner fits a regular 12mm BHCS, so no cut screw or washers are needed anymore.
-* CAD and STLs for alpha-4 are now available.  The original V0.1 bed assembly is gone, for a smaller file size, but Fusion is failing to export, so .step only for this one.
-* Want to contribute?  PRs would be welcome for these improvements:
-  * Integrated probing solution
-  * Rear side skirts with less material.  Duplicating the front skirts adds unnecesary material and gets in the way of a rear outlet.  I got tired and chose to release this instead of modding the skirt.  Other improvements matter more.
-  * Integrated bed Wago mount (5x2)
-
-#### 2022-01-16 Update:
-Initial BOM posted below.  No large changes are expected, but no promises are made w/an alpha!
-
-#### 2022-01-11 Update:
-* T0-Alpha-3 released: **now with less!**
-* **Now Direct-Drive** - yes, this is a huge change.  Frees up space, lower costs, and speeds up the conversion time.  And yes, regular NEMA14 motors seem to have just enough unpowered hold and enough resolution to make this work in practice.  Long (V0.1-spec) NEMA14s should be overqualified to hold the bed when the power cuts out.
-* **Now using MCMBen Trident-style skirts** - these look great and enable integrated side skirts with motor mounts.  Only needs one part and its mirror to change, the front corners, to add clearance for the front belt pulleys.  See the repo for these.
-* Simplified Z attachments: easier and faster to print, increases Z travel (122mm out of the box), and also removes 6 M2 screws.
-* New rear motor attachment piece.  It's basically a block.
-* Updated front idlers: reduces the material needed and slightly increases clearance for another mm of X travel.
-* CAD and STLs for alpha-3 are now available.  GitHub limits files to 100 MB and the Fusion export is just a bit too large.  [Go here for the Fusion export](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fiEJLRE4qYLFB2CRu8r5_06jv_Fr14W6/view?usp=sharing).
-* What's coming next?
-   * Redone integrated skirts.  The motors are too far inboard now, which wastes space and loads the motor bearings unnecessarily.  This was intentional, to minimize skirt changes, but if we go full-custom with the skirts, they can be more optimized for Tri-Zero.  For example, by extending beyond the frame boundary - to the enclosure boundary - it should be easier to enable NEMA17 motors.
-   * A probing solution is coming, called ZeroClick, but it needs a corresponding dock created before release.
-   * A rear Z motor mount that doesn't change the nut locations relative to V0.1 would be nice!
-   * Lessons from Double Dragon point the way to probably 130mm Z (!) using the same rails.
-   * ZeroPanels are coming soon: screwless, nutless, magnetless, toolless enclosure panels that attach and remove in seconds.
-   * Maybe... just maybe... a block-and-tackle Z for 2x resolution and torque.
-   * Some built-in solution for mounting Wagos under the bed.
-
-#### 2021-11-15 Update:
-* T0-Alpha-2-Green can **reliably** and automatically level itself.  Config coming soon.
-* The new flexure joints beat the KGLM03 joints in smoothness, as they converge *very* quicky when doing automatic leveling, plus drop a few bucks from the cost total.
-* Z has been increased to right about 120mm, and nearly all main Z motion parts had to change to enable this.
-* Front idlers were narrowed a bit to avoid a tiny bit of interference in the very front of the printer.  
-* CAD and STLs for alpha-2 are now available.   
-* What's coming next?
-  * Lessons from alpha-2 will lead to a much simpler alpha-3, likely with even taller Z (beyond 120mm).
-  * Different detachable probe options are under testing, including SideSwipe and a stretched Klicky-style probe.
-
-#### 2021-11-07 Update:
-* T0-Alpha-1-Green can automatically level itself, as of today!  Images and video proof are availabe on Discord.  Real life nearly matches the CAD.
-* CAD and STLs for alpha-1 now available.
-
-### BOM preview
-
-This BOM preview is for Alpha-4, though there's no expectation that these parts will change.  The BOM will become more specific over time, as more of the design gets tested and finalized.
-
-| Category | Part | Qty | Notes |
+| ![Iso](Renders/alpha-6/shaft_cap.png) | ![Front](Renders/alpha-6/updated_z_joint_orientation.png) | ![Iso with skirt](Renders/alpha-6/baseplate_with_corners.png) | 600+ lines added! |
 | - | - | - | - |
-| Fasteners | M2x6 BHCS or SHCS | 10+ | For retaining the Z attachments in rear (2), 6-8 for the rear Z bar, plus one per front idler (2) |
-| Fasteners | M2x8 BHCS or SHCS | 4+ | For retaining the Z belt attachments in front |
-| Fasteners | M2 nuts | 12 | For M2 nutbars
-| Fasteners | M3 BHCS (various) | Yes | For Z idlers (vertical), Z idler attachments (horizontal), motor mounts, skirts, +lots more
-| Fasteners | M3 nuts | Yes |
-| Fasteners | M3 heatset inserts | Yes | For motors, bed mounts (2 + 3), motor skirts (4x3), z belt attachment (4) and more
-| Z Drives | GT2 belt | 3x~500mm |
-| Z Drives | GT2 16t pulleys | 3 |
-| Z Drives | MGN7H 150mm | 2 | Ideally upgrade to MGN9C on the X carriage and then get only one of these to repurpose for a front Z drive.  See the nte below.
-| Z Drives | NEMA14 or NEMA17 motors | 3 | Needs to have enough hold torque.  Mid-size (33mm body length) NEMA14 are marginal, while long (48mm body length) NEMA14 or most mid-to-large NEMA17 will provide enough unpowered hold torque to keep the bed from dropping.  Ideally 0.9mm for extra resolution.  Mix and match should be fine.  Use what you've got.  The Z drive motors barely matter.
-| Z Drives | F623 bearings | 6 | Idlers |
-| Bed | Sexbolt endstop kit | 1 + 1 | Needed for Auto-Z, though technically optional, if you use a virtual endstop in Klipper |
-| Frame | Guitar Feet | 4 | Optional; same as used with Voron Trident.  Can use original V0.1 rubber feet instead.
+| Screw-in Shaft Caps | Updated Z joint orientation | Baseplate with corners | New docs all over |
 
-In addition, you'll need parts for ZeroClick, plus some way to get extra drivers.
+* **Screw-in Shaft Caps**: These match updated MotorCorners; they'll never break now, with no clips in shear.  Much nicer.
 
-### What do you mean by Alpha Release?
+* **Updated Z joint orientation**: Now printed vertically, to add strength in bending.  Should reduce the chance of breaking a $0.01 Z joint print upon head crashes.
 
-It's a collection of early, rapidly-evolving parts, that you can look at, learn from, and maybe even improve upon.  
+* **Baseplate file with cutouts added**: Long-requested; saves the need to bust out your flush cutters or Dremel, if you're sourcing from scratch.
 
-The parts actually work to enable functional triple-bed-leveling, so you can build a working printer with it.
+* **Docs**: Lots has been learned in the last year of T0, and now we have specific motor recommendations, config notes, tips, build steps, and an FAQ.  More visual, more engaging.  No proper manual yet, but this gets us halfway there.
 
-To test the concept as quickly as possible, early alpha releases re-used many parts from other sources, especially [F-Zero](https://github.com/zruncho3d/f-zero). But the 4x Z reduction really wasn't needed for a bed that is 1/3 the weight of an F-Zero gantry, so at alpha-3, everything moved to direct drive.
+Thanks to everyone who contributed to this release by testing parts!  You know who you are, and you'll get the ping-for-test again, I assure you :smile:.
 
-Think of it as a functioning work-in-progress in advance of a future T0 beta or actual release.
+I'm behind on reviewing GitHub pull requests, and that's up next: to make your mods more visible.
 
-### What is missing in the Alpha Release?
+## Prior Changes
 
-As of Alpha-5 nothing.
+Prior changes (alpha-5, alpha-4, ...) are now noted in the **[visual changelog](CHANGES.md)**, which explains how T0 has evolved and walks through the interesting parts.
 
-### What's in this repo?
+### Build Options: an Overview
 
-In this repo are all of the STLs needed to build a Tri-Zero Alpha which are not in the V0.1 repo.
+No two builds are likely to be identical, and that's OK.  You're a smart, independent builder, and here you get to choose amongst the options to match your priorities and budget.  Next up is a quick overview, with the shared elements after.
 
-All parts should be already be in print-ready orientation, with seam in the +Y dir, and no supports are needed.
+#### Least-cost Stock-size Option: "starving student special" conversion - $0-$75
 
-Standard Voron settings, or lowered infill and fewer perims, should work fine for most parts:
-- 4 perimeters
-- 40% infill, depending on the part
-- 0.2mm layer height
+**Performs well, at minimum cost.**
 
-The MotorSkirts and Rear Corners are happy with 20% infill, for a bit of print speedup.
+Buy 3 small NEMA14 motors (< ~$30), print some sliders, and keep using your MGN7H X rail.  Buy some pulleys ($5), belt ($5), and fasteners ($10ish).  Buy a low-cost 2-4 driver board ($25).  Potentially $0 if you have the parts lying around from other printer, including magents and a switch for ZeroClick.  Sure, the rear bed joint might occasionally drop when the power cuts, and the sliders require a little bit of tuning, but once the printer rehomes, you're good, and the Z motion quality should match real rails.
 
-### Printed Parts
+#### Premium Model, 120x120: ~$110
 
-For printed parts, you need the STLs in the quantites noted from this repo, along with STLs from a bunch of places:
-- [ZeroPanels](https://github.com/zruncho3d/ZeroPanels)
-- [Zeroclick](Renders/alpha-5/zeropanel_clip.png) (if enclosing)
-- From [F-Zero](https://github.com/zruncho3d/f-zero):
-  - [No-drop nuts](https://github.com/zruncho3d/f-zero/tree/main/STLs/NoDropNuts)
-  - [12mm Bed Spacers](https://github.com/zruncho3d/f-zero/blob/main/STLs/Bed/bed_spacer_12mm_x3.stl)
-- More M2 nutbars from V0
+**Performs the best.**
 
-### Non-printed Parts
+Might as well upgrade your X rail to MGN9C while you're at it ($15?), to  reduce toolhead flop.  Use beefy 48mm NEMA17s (~$45), and for rails, add one MGN7H to go with the one you just freed up ($15).  Otherwise the same.
 
-An MGN9C or dual-MGN7X gantry is highly recommended!  You don't want toolhead flop to affect bed-probe results or print quality.  Hartk1213 has an [MGN9 mod for V0](https://github.com/Fleafa/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/hartk1213/Voron0_MGN9C_X_Axis) which is in use in the first prototype.
+#### Least-cost Plus50 BoxZero conversion: ~170x170: ~$150 to ~$200
 
-### What if I have questions?
+You're also looking at a new K3-style or Prusa-Mini-style bed/magnet/flexplate ($35+), additional extrusion pieces ($30), new 200mm XY MGN7Hs and a 200mm MGN9C ($50), plus new longer XY belts ($10).  Yields a bit of extra Z travel too.
 
-The renders and CAD should answer many questions first.
+The price point is maybe $50 less if you're scratch-building and can leave out the Z rails, or you sell all the rails from your kit to someone who is scratch-building.  More details in the Plus50 section.
 
-Then, go the DoomCube Discord and ask on the #tri-zero channel.
+#### Premium Model, ~170x170: ~$200-$300
+
+Move 4x MGN7H rails to Z, for ~130mm Z travel.
+
+Optionally, add new clear ($20) and solid panels ($20).
+
+Optinally, add a top-grade bed, like one from Mandala Rose Works meant for a Salad Fork.
+
+Optionally, go for taller panels, taller BoxZero corners, custom frame, and 200mm MGN7H Z rails, to get a 170x170x170 build cube.
 
 ### Additional Credits / History